Armchair Travel

P #4 - Excursions after the PPA to Cusco, Machu Picchu, Arequipa, Chiclayo and Trujillo

Bright and early on Saturday, Jan 21, Jean and I left for the airport to fly to Cusco. Before that I left my main bag at my next hostel, Hostel Buena Vista, as I did not want to lug all my gear for the next two weeks. The nice man had been woken from his sleep, but somehow managed to understand that I would be coming back on Feb 3rd to stay.

Flight was uneventful and we were picked up by Josephina who shuttled us to our hotel, Hotel Villandre. We were about 10 blocks away from the main square, but on a safe road and got a room at the back of the hotel.

We were instructed to take it easy and were offered coca tea. Not bad, but I am not sure what all the shouting is about. As Cusco is at 13,000 feet, both Jean and I had been taking our high altitude pills, but drank the tea and settled down for a quick nap before the city tour at 1pm.

We boarded the bus with guide, Guiermo, and first went to the cathedral which was amazing and showed us that Jesus had actually eaten guinea pig for the last supper, not lamb as we had all been lead to believe. Imagine all this time, thinking it was lamb. I have post card that shows it so it must be true. Out the door and surrounded by people taking pictures of us and trying to sell us postcards.

What I have found is that almost none of the museums or sites that we visit have interpretive information in print. Probably so you have to hire a guide to understand what is going on because few of the museums have signs in both Spanish and English. Even the books that you can buy in the area are all in Spanish so no help there.

On the bus, we next went to Corichanca which was a monastery built over an Inca temple. It was wonderful to see the stones up close and too see how they fit without mortar. At every Inca site, they tell us that during all the earthquakes, the Inca buildings are the safest. All the additions made by the Spanish and later people are always destroyed, which is how they found this site after the 1950 earthquake. It had all be plastered over, but the plaster shattered and revealed this building. It originally was a walled compound with only one entrance and a square of temples to the sun, moon, thunder, rainbows and I can’t remember the other three. I have a picture of the smallest stone, no bigger than a fingernail. The reason why the walls are so strong is that they are built wider at the base than at the top and large stones are cut so that they go around the corners. The buildings were almost never over one story and the roofs were thatched that had to be replaced annually. The Inca always used local stone so sometimes it is basalt and sometimes it is limestone. Still very impressive when you see the size of some of these stones.

Next, on the bus and up the hill above Cusco to Susqueyama (or Sexy Woman as mangled by the English Language). It is a huge fort and look out and was very impressive. It forms the head of the Puma that Cusco was built around. Other landmarks down in Cusco form the spine, tail and legs of the giant cat. We were beginning to feel the altitude and walked slowly. There were lots of people at the bus to sell us things, dressed in local clothing, with spinning demonstrations and llamas on display for photos. Most of the areas where tourists go, you can take pictures, but the people expect a tip for the photo.

Next, up the hill a little more to ???????? which was mainly a site for prayer and sacrifice. At this point, Jean was suffering for both altitude and the Peruvian Panic, so Guiermo, gave her alcohol to rub on her hands and inhale and to rub on her throat. Helpful but not entirely, as she finally ended up on a flat rock with Jim, a Dr. from Atlanta, holding her feet up and me taking her pulse. Back in the bus for two additional stops before we went back into Cusco.

+++++, the red fort was a small Inca site with reddish stones and more local people for photos. Our final stop was ????? which was a 15-minute hike up the hill to a site that was a retreat for the Inca gentry. It had been threatening rain the whole time, but as we got to the bottom of the hill, we had a lovely break in the clouds and the sun on the mountains.

We got Jean back to our room and set her up with an extra pillow, remote for the TV, space heater and 10 minutes of oxygen out of a tank. She was set for the evening so I ventured out, with a map of Cusco and a business card from the hotel, to find Barb at her hotel and Bob who came up on a later flight. Some of the best advice the guidebooks give was to always travel with a business card from your hotel so that you can show it to a taxi and they can get you home.

Barb had just finished 4 days of hiking the Inca trail ending at Machu Picchu. She said she had never been so tired in her entire life. She had four days of hiking broken up into 8 hours, 8 hours, 5 hours and then 3.5 hours. Tourists were allowed to carry no more than 15 pounds and the guides and barrers carried the rest. She said the tourists struggled over the terrain, even the 23 year olds from Denmark, but that the barrers ran up the hills with tents, luggage and food. She said the worse part was the pit toilets, not because of the smell, but because your legs were so tired at the end of the day that as you go to squat, they would shake. It sounded like she enjoyed it but not sure if she would do it again.

Jan 22
Sunday, Jean and I were going on a bus tour of the sacred valley. It would cover many Inca sites and towns including the famous market at Pisac. My seatmate was Tina from Denmark who will be completing her tour around the world in April with Easter Island, and Jean sat next to a man from Germany who was taking 6 months away from work to travel.

We stopped at one market and then our bus descended into the valley that was very green and full of crops. It is in sharp contrast to the area around Lima. While the people are still poor, they are at least able to raise food for themselves and to sell. The dogs look a lot healthier here and most wear collars and even play with each other and chase balls.

In Pisac at the market we had two choices. Our stop would only be for 30 minutes and then we would be on the bus up on another site. If we chose to stay in the market, then the bus would return at 12:30. Jean indicated that she would be back on the bus, but was not to be seen at the first deadline. We went up the mountain without her and one other person to the Pisac ruins.

The Pisac Ruins involved quite a hike on a narrow ledge up to a summit. Half way up I decided to rest, save my strength for MPicchu the next day and then returned to the bus. There was one portion of the trail that I had to navigate and I called it the Devils Staircase. It was steep, uneven steps that clung to the side of the hill. In addition, there were lots of tourists so someone had to be on the outside. I took my time and kept letting pods of tourists go past me. As you will see from most of the photos I took in this area, the standard piece of clothing for tourists is a lovely, brightly colored plastic poncho. I have a shot of the Devils Staircase with a herd of colorful plastic coated tourists descending the stairs. They either look like garden gnomes or hobbits. My poncho is deep purple.

At 12:30, the bus was not ready to return to Pisac and I hoped Jean would be okay with the wait. She had become aware that time was a fluid thing. Once we got back to Pisac, there was no sign of Jean. The guide and I did a quick look through the market and still no Jean. He said she probably got a ride to our next stop, Calca for lunch. I did not feel that had happened as she had left her purse on the bus that had most of her money, her documents and her ticket showing what was next. I went on the bus to Calca, but still no Jean. I borrowed money from some Australians for a phone call to our hotel in Cusco and still no Jean. I told them to tell her if she calls that I am in Pisac looking for her.

The guide helps me find a local bus back to Pisac. No Jean. I speak to a shopkeeper I bought from and told her my story. She agrees to keep an eye out for her. At the head of the market is a police car, so I look through the market for men in uniform. I find them and tell them about Jean and show them her passport. I explain that she has no money, may be sick, speaks no Spanish and is lost. They are regional police and they very kindly take me to the local police station that is right where the bus left me off from Calca. When I begin my story again, one of the policemen says, yes, he has seen her and they had put her on a bus back to Cusco one hour ago. (She probably got on the bus that I got off). So, I get on to another local bus for an hours ride back to Cusco. Luckily, a very nice man gave me his seat, as the road was incredibly hilly and uneven.

I arrived back in Cusco at the regional bus terminal (dirt lot) and the bus driver helped me find a taxi back to the hotel. I arrive and Jean was in the room. Luckily, she had some money in her pocket and the business card from the hotel so she got back without mishap. She felt so bad that I had missed the rest of the trip, but I was just glad she was safe. I learned lots about myself this day and will carry it with me for the rest of my trip.

Monday, Jan 23

Up at the crack of dawn to catch the train to Aqua Calientes, the stopping point for Machu Picchu. It will take us four hours in the train but it is 30 minutes before we have even left Cusco proper. In order for the train to gain altitude, it has to go through a series of about 5 switchbacks. As we are going back and forth during the switchbacks, I notice on the top of the roofs are little shrines that usually include a cross, some flowers and two figures of bulls. Hmmmmm? Haven’t found anyone to ask about this yet.

We find that our tickets are mixed up in that the one with my name says I am returning tonight to Cusco and Jean’s says she is staying two days in ACalientes. Our guide says that I will have to be Jean for the train ride but it should be okay. During out ride ACalientes, I strike up a conversation with Jamie and Jason, students from Adelaide Australia and I hope to see them when I am in Oz in July.

When you get to ACalientes, you have to leave your bags with porters from the hotel and then get on the bus for MPicchu because the guide only has us for two hours and many of the group is only day-trippers. My hostel was called Machu Picchu and it was included on the sign with two other Hostels. Before you boarded the bus, we had to pass through yet another market and then cross the raging river with a footbridge.

The scenery was wonderful and we do many switchbacks to get up to the entrance. At the entrance, we are split into another group with Guide Darwin who speaks English and off we go. IT IS SO BEAUTIFUL! Machu Picchu does not disappoint.

We climbed all over the site in two hours and at times it is hot but by the end we are soaked. (I didn’t have my poncho yet, but I will before tomorrow). Jean and I had lunch and then it is time for her to go back down the mountain to catch the train back to Cusco. A long day for her, but at least she got to see it.

It continued to pour during lunch and I told myself that I would give it one more hour and if it was still pouring, I would go back down and return tomorrow. In 15 minutes it has stopped so I went back in. I ended the day totally soaked, but I got to walk to highest point in the main site where the famous pictures are taken. It is worth the wet, beside, I needed to wash the sweater I had on anyway.

One of the highlights of the day, which Barb had warned us about, was a young entrepreneur I call Mr. ADIOS GOOD BYE. This young man, 8-12 years of age, dressed in local garments, met the returning busses at every switchback saying a long plaintive wail ADIOS GOOOOOOODDDDDDDD BYYYYYYYYE. As you crossed the river, he ran ahead of the bus. On the other side the bus stopped and let him board. He cried his signature chant and then proceeded down the aisle collecting contributions. I had spied him at one of the first switchbacks where he had 6-8 apprentices with him. I wonder if he gets a kick back for the buses that he does not get to ride?

I found an Internet café that night and checked in with the mail and went to bed very happy in a room that over looked the roaring river. Even with the doors and windows closed, because it was cold, it sounded like I had an air conditioner on high fan all night. HEAVEN!

Tuesday, Jan 24

With my lovely purple poncho at the ready, I board the bus to MPicchu for day two. I had intended to get up very early and get up to MPicchu on the first bus, but did not make it. I was finally there at about 8:30 and found Bob, who had been on the first bus. It was very overcast, but I knew it would burn off around 10:30 and was prepared to wait.

It was a lovely morning with drizzle on and off and the purple poncho was a big help. I found a place to sit very high and watched for over an hour and the clouds came and went and the mountains appeared and then disappeared behind them. There were also llama races going on during the morning. It appeared that one lucky female llama had 5 suitors and you could hear them calling and clattering over the paved walks. During one time of overcast, a fearsome battle was waged and then the clouds parted, she was down one suitor. I don’t think there was a death involved, but the looser decided to make himself scarce. There were only 1/3 the number of tourists as yesterday, so on my high perch, there were several times when I heard no one but the llamas of course.

When the sun finally broke, it was just when the main set of tourists who come up for the day arrived. As I knew that they would be busy in the lower section, I chose to go higher and find the Inca Bridge, which was a 20-minute hike from the top. Again, not many people on the trail with me and I let them pass me as I took my time and stopped for photos. I saw many lovely flowers and even wild strawberries just ready to be picked, humming birds, mini-orchids and the bridge. On the way back, a group ahead of me found a large centipede having a munch. He was very handsome in his black coat and lots of red legs. Photo taken, I moved on.

I ambled around all the places I had not visited yesterday, retook photos that now were devoid of tourists and end up leaving the park around 4pm. I spoke to a lovely couple from Ouray and Ridgeway Colorado who loved it as much as I did. You may remember, I kept running into Coloradoans in France. I wonder if they were be everywhere I travel this year?

I met Bob for dinner to help celebrate his birthday. We found a great restaurant that was Peruvian/French and the food was wonderful. Papaya and avocado salad to die for!

Wednesday, Jan 25

This morning was filled with picking up my laundry and doing computer work to try and keep my blog chugging along. Then as soon as I find a wifi, I can download it. The train back was uneventful and I had the seat for two to myself that was nice. We were treated to a fashion show in our coach with two of the ladies modeling lovely alpaca items and two of the men dressed in native costumes.

Back to the hotel Villandre and bed.

Thursday, Jan 26

On this day in Cusco, I tried to see as many of the sites included in my tourist ticket. The Inca Museum was the best I have seen and had many displays in English as well as Spanish. It is incredibly detailed and a must see when in Cusco. I happened to see Tina for the Pisac trip and filled her in that Jean was fine and back in the US. She said that the rest of the tour was not that good, so I did not miss much. For the same price, I entered the church next to the cathedral and it was a huge disappointment. I did get a view of the square I couldn’t achieve anywhere else, but otherwise, it was a miss in my book.

My guidebook has steered me to two different eateries, one called Café Padre’s whose proceeds go to a home for teenage girls. The food was great and I came upon Kim, a Kiwi who has lived in England for years and teaches school. She is on sabbatical and traveling around the world and will work with the street kids in Cusco. She was lovely to talk to as we shared lunch. The other place was just down the street and boasted a lovely book exchange, so I traded two in and took two. What a great system. I plan to keep track of the books I read from the exchanges for the year. It should be an eclectic bunch.

Friday, Jan 27

Morning of running around saying goodbye to Cusco and then the plane from Cusco to Arequipa, the colonial city. Only 9000 feet so no need for the pills anymore. Road to my hotel with Alan and Sandy from Canada. He is doing a PhD in Anthropology, but not the digging kind. My hotel is nice, has Internet and is close to the square. I walked around it in the afternoon and sat in the balcony for dinner with a local dish of hot red pepper filled with meat and cheese. Yummy. Located what I think will be my first wife opportunity which is exciting.

Saturday, Jan 28,

I take it easy as I have been running for about 16 days without much of a break. I decide to buy sandals as mine are in my luggage in Miraflores and I don’t want to wear my boots every day for the next week. Within a day, they have given me blisters so they will not be continuing with me for long.

Sunday, Jan 29

Still taking it easy, decided not to try and cram in a one-day trip to see Colca Canyon and the condors and vicunas. That will have to happen on my next trip, as there will be one, as I did not get to see the Amazon on this one. I did go to the Monastery of St. Catalina, which is really a convent. It is amazing and all the kitchens in each of the little nocks fascinate me. Went to the wifi site and never achieved connection, so I wrote blog entries and drank coffee.

I am finding it a little lonely and I don’t feel adventurous right now. I realized that I am looking forward to the community at the dance camp and being on more a schedule. I must remember these times when I am so scheduled that I wish for flexibility. Just one of the phases I will find during this trip. I think another thing that is eating at me is my limited Spanish and having to go ahead by myself. All within my power to change for the better.

Mon, Jan 30

I leave Arequipa at 8:55 pm and find I have a layover in the Lima airport until 5pm when I leave for Chichlayo. So, books in hand, lunch to be had and time with computer in the Internet center at the terminal. Not a bad day and I got all my expenses transcribed into my new notebook so I can keep track of my budget. (Way over it at this point, which I expected. The first three months will end up being the most expensive as the placements are far apart and lots of travel in between to get to them.)

Tuesday, Jan 31

Chiclayo and one of the tours I was most looking forward to, the Senor of Sipan. This is the archeological site of a Moche ruler (dynasty before the Incas) and it was fascinating. We had an excellent guide and it was me, a couple from Germany, a couple from Switzerland, two ladies from Peru and Costa Rica and Arturo, the guide. We ended up as Sican (another Moche site) Tucume (again Moche with some Chimu culture) and finally Sipan. Fascinating and the Sipan museum is wonderful. You need guide as none of it is in English. Amazing to see the amount of detail work the Peruvians were doing between 800-1400 AD with copper, silver and gold. The pottery is also amazing and the rituals and social structure. Most of these sites looked like sand mounds, until you started to dig and found that they were actually pyramid, like the Maya or Aztecs made of adobe bricks. Most of the sites been disturbed by Huachayeros (Huacha = holy site, robbers) Some of the destruction had been done over 400 years ago, but some of it was quite new and in fact, lead the archeologists to really find the SIPAN tomb.

I didn’t realize that until I got to Peru, the Inca was simply the last culture and the one found by the Spanish. There had been 12-15 distinct cultures before the Inca and most with incredibly buildings and aqueducts to bring water to the dessert. The best thing about them is that when they overtook a culture, they didn’t automatically destroy all their buildings. The rule might be captured and brought to the conquerors city but so were artisan and crafts people. They would take the best of before and incorporate it. HUMMMMM?

Wed, Feb 1

Today I am in for an adventure, I am taking the bus between Chiclayo and Trujillo, three hours south along the coast.

The bus was large and the seats were comfortable and a tv in front showing a movie in Spanish. I had an aisle seat, luckily, because the young woman in front of me had her seat totally reclined. Not sure why hers needed to be reclined because she spent most of trip lounged against her patient and very long-suffering boyfriend. I think the movie was Blackhawk Down, but couldn’t be sure.

I spent half my time looking out the window as the dessert and dust. It is so hard to believe the disparate climates and terrain of this land. Also amazing is how successful the early culture was to capture the available water and use it efficiently to grow crops. Over 200 kinds of potatoes, and over 1000 kids of corn. Today the same region grows cotton, sugar cane, and rice. In Peru, the yellow corn that we eat all the time is only fed to chickens. One of their main corns is a pale yellow, has kernels as large as a man’s thumbnail and makes popcorn the size of marshmallows. Plus the purple corn, I have mentioned before is an amazing drink, Chicha!

Thurs, Feb 2

Today, was my visit to the Chumi cultures archeological site of Chan Chan. The tour was split into two halves, the am to the Huaca de la Luna and de la Sol in a small bus. These pyramids are south of the city and had an amazing freezes in them, some with the original painting on them.
Very hot in the sun, and I burned on my neck even with 30 sun block on. We were back in Trujillo for a lunch on our own and then back into a larger and much nicer bus for the Chan Chan portion.

Chan Chan is a huge complex with 9 major palaces, each with three main sections. We saw the Tschudi Palace, one of the smallest. This complex had massive looting so most of the artifacts are gone. That does not stop it from being an amazing complex of gigantic proportions. The freezes are amazing and they have done a wonderful job of restoring most of the walls to give us a feel for the scale. One of the best things about this afternoon is that it was overcast and cool, which made it very pleasant. In the bright sun, Chan Chan would be a furnace. The universe always provides, all I have to do it ask.

Fri, Feb 3

I flew back to Lima today and I was looking forward to returning to an area where I felt comfortable and under control. I had a lot of small things to accomplish like hotels and deposits to pay, phone calls to make, laundry to do and finding Fedex to send stuff back to the US. I am planning to do that at the end of the every country to send back paperwork and books I won’t need for the rest of the trip and any souvenirs from the area. I am finding that my luggage weight more than when I left. It think it is the humidity, but it could also be I am getting a little tired and am not anxious to lug everything around.

I am contemplating mailing the laptop home. If I do not locate and become comfortable with WIFI, the machine may become a heavy luxury that adds weight to my bags as well as a source of concern for its security. The jury is still out, but we are contemplating it. On one hand, the computer is a great source of entertainment as I can type and process things as they happen. If I do send it home, I will need to buy more journals and do a better job of writing every day while the information is recent and I can remember all the names. You may have noticed that there are certain areas with ?? for names that I cannot remember, as I have already sent my Peru book back home.

This ends the excursion portion of Peru because tomorrow, I am off to the dance camp.

Jan 16-20 – PPA week 2

PHOTOS STILL TO COME !

Monday, Jan 16

This was a day of many challenges for the entire team. Several of us had come down the Peruvian Panic, as I call it, over the weekend and were feeling drained. Add to it that Jean, Mary and I had a long weekend in hot weather and that added to the fatigue. (I will think long and hard before I commit to weekend excursions during future placements)

Painting was again a haven of calm and we added Mryna, (who is an artist) which will help tremendously. Patty, Myrna and I were doing outlining on most of the creatures and Carlos was on the ladder outlining the waves in black. Suddenly, there was an ominous sound of dripping water and we look over to see Carlos part way down the later clutching the paint and black paint dripping down the wall over the trio of octopi and all over the floor. The team sprang into action to rescue Carlos and begin sopping up the mess. There was no water close to us and our rags were not that much help. Luckily, we had paper down and could use that to stop most of it, but it was all over the ladder and covered at least 10 steps. This was at about 10:45 and I can report that by the time we left for lunch at 12:30, almost all of the repair work had been accomplished on the wall and floor. We will need to let it dry and little, and will paint over some of the characters, but if you did not know it happened, you would not be able to tell.

Siblings and the kindergarten group were pandemonium this afternoon, and if the team was frustrated on Friday, it was worse today. We were not allowed to take our group away from the others because a special teacher was coming to work with the kids and she was expected at 3:00. She finally arrived at 4:15. Jean is my new team buddy as she found she was not needed in the afternoon to work with older girls. Carolina has taken to her and Jean being a school psychologist was helpful. She drew pictures of each of the kids for them to keep and charmed Marco when she outlined a Mariposa for him to color in. (Butterfly). I have it in my keeping and will show it to you when I return.

With both groups commingled, we were 4 adults and 16 kids. Not the best ratio when it comes to 4 year olds. At one point, we were in the rusty playground and Patty was not having success keeping the girls from escaping, Roalia included in the bunch. As they disappeared around the corner, Patty and I followed to find them all squatting behind a bush, having a pee. Shrieking and running they escaped through the building. Prior to that, they had stolen the mechanical car and were running amok all over the campus. More chasing them back to the area and we all left frustrated, hot and feeling pretty defeated.

One of the things that GV indicates is that volunteers will always work with an equal number of local people. This has not been the case, and today, we had no local person to help us that added to the day. We explained our day to Mili and she helped give us a perspective. First, it was Monday and some of the kids had gone home for the weekend. Even if the PPA is better than home, they don’t always want to come back, especially because the PPA has rules and at home, there may be none. Second, the helpers that are normally present were directed by Sister to clean for the special teacher instead of helping us.

Mili had her share of frustration because she joined the bus to summer school and saw how unorganized the program was. As of today, the GV will not be doing summer school. Jean will help in the boys’ bathroom and Myrna on the mural.

Dinner for me was a subdued affair as my stomach was still iffy.

Tuesday, Jan 17

Flexibility – Mili suggested that I work with the toddlers this morning as that was what I originally had asked to do. I had a brief moment of not wanting to give up control of the mural, but knew that it would be fine under Patty’s direction. So off to Toddler land I went.

Even though I had not seen them since last Monday, they warmed up a lot faster. Bob had been working on transitioning Carlito to other people because the first few separations had been so traumatic for Carlito. I got to take several of them for a walk in the stroller, but they soon were asleep. This is not allowed because too much napping early in the day means no afternoon nap. So I took Connie and Carlito back and played with them. The rest of the group are twins, Carilta and ??, Shena, Connie (16 months) and Carlito (14 months). Carlito is one of 9 children, Connie is an only child, the twins have 4 other siblings and Shena I can’t remember. The DR was there to check them and most of them have chest congestion.

I got to feed Carlito and I think the menu was liver and rice, chicken soup with egg and then a juice drink for dessert. He was so good and ate everything, and was excellent at telling me that the soup was too hot. He did not cry, but would not accept a bite until it was cooled. Then changing and naptime. How cute! I look forward to seeing them tomorrow.

The mural looks great and progress has been made. They have completed the final stencils and now it will simply be fill in details.

The siblings were an entirely different group. Apparently, Sister had gotten to them and you would not believe these were the same children. I also was changed and stood back more instead of insinuating myself on them. The mechanical car was in view and you have never seen such teamwork in your life. The car is heavy, can seat 4 and is mechanized with a full engine. I could not believe how they all took turns, changed places and worked as a team to get that car from point A to B. Their main goal was to get it down the ramp and away from me. No such luck, but they tried.

Patty had promised the kindergarteners since they were so good today, movies tomorrow as they had missed last Friday. Jean and I decided we would add our group as well.

Dinner was at a fabulous sandwich place that was very popular. We all loved it. Mili said that one team was so picky about what they ate that they went there three times. Our group is medium picky, with one true vegetarian, one who eats no fruit or veggies, one who has a tooth ache, so only wants soft food, one who wants no additional crabs so always wants extra veggies and no rice and potatoes. Then there are the tender tummy bunch, me included who drank lots of Gatorade, ate rice, bread and not much else. Did I say we weren’t picky?

Wednesday, Jan 18

Toddlers and the worlds longest walk. Right after everyone is dressed and ready to go, usually the Brown ladies show up to help. The Brown ladies are ladies from the community who usually come in once a week to help in different areas. They all wear a brown dress and are very nice. Today, it was time for the walk so 5 adults including Pamela and I, 4 strollers with seating for 5, and 10 additional toddlers set out to Vamos a Ver (go and see). The first 5 minutes seemed to be fine, with lots of stopping to look at the mariposas and discuss the trees. One of the ladies brought saltines and another water, so when we stopped, the whole herd converged for their share. The walk fell apart with the appearance of a dog that lead 6 of them away from the herd. 10 minutes to round up the escapees. Then around the corner past where the mural was being painted and Patty signaling that they need me to go up the ladder and stencil the sun and moon. It will have to wait. At one point when we were on a concrete platform and some were too close to the edge, a car drives up. The head lady in Brown piles all the ambulatory toddlers into the car for a quick trip around the building. Then they all pile out and we continue. As soon as we were even close to the entrance, I make a beeline with my buggy loaded with two back to toddler land. I drop them off in their respective pods and run to add the stencils. The detail work looks great. Pamela informed me that when I left, each of them had 5 to handle.

I am back in toddler heaven in time to feed and this time there is one adult per child. I have Connie who eats fairly well but does lots of train wrecks for me. At least it isn’t liver and rice again, it appeared to be beef and egg and rice, noodle soup and juice for dessert. Bob 2 arrives and is supposed to help one of the twins who is really supposed to feed herself. She puts a spoon in and then he does. Everyone else is finished and she is still eating. Bob keeps calling may day and I finally bring her juice over which she drinks completely. I think she was just so thirsty, she wasn’t interested in food.

After our lunch we take the kids over to the video room that is set for about 70 kids. I walk with Diana and Wendy and Erica trails behind. I am pleased to see that Marco’s group also arrives and he ends up sitting on my lap during most of it so I am in heaven. Erica is more interested in making my watch do things than watching the video. We tried Shark tale but the DVD kept stalling so we switched to a version of 101 Dalmatians and they held it together for about 35 minutes. So many of the kids wanted you to hold their hands, sit on your lap or just have a moment of your time. I wished I was an octopus or a kangaroo so I had more lap space.

Finally it was time to go and all the kids’ whindged but with a candy in their mouth, off they went.

Dinner was at a chicken place and as I hadn’t had much to eat, I charged right in. We discussed why most of us were there and it felt like a good end to the day.

Thursday, Jan 19.

At 2:00 am, I had my first trip of many to the little room and by 3am, I knew that I would not be attending the PPA today. Major stomach upset which left we weak, sweaty and dizzy. Jean, God love her, went before breakfast to the store for Gatorade and water for me and many friends stopped by before the bus left and say Hi and see if they could do anything. At that point, most of it had stopped and I had taken my Imodium, so it was just rest and see. (Outside, Juan was getting a parking ticket for staying in one place to long)

I tried to read, but my eyes hurt. There was nothing on tv, so the ipod and I had a quiet morning. Then at 11am, a marching band marched through the square playing the Col. Boggie March from Bridge on the River Kwai. Funny, I would be in Thailand within one month and would be at my old horse camp at the river. I can’t understand why Mary or Myrna had not told me of the entertainment because both of them had stayed home one day.

I felt much better when they all returned, but did not go down to dinner, as sitting up was not a good exercise at the time. I knew that I wanted to make it on Friday, as it would be our last day at the PPA.

Friday, Jan 20

Our last day at PPA and it would be a short day as they always prepare a goodbye party for us. The team had collected money for basic office supplies for the PPA and Jean went on Thursday to Staples with Mili. She was expected a store. It was an 8 X 8 kiosk with office supplies. 10 reams of paper, pencils, pads, paper clips, etc would be our donation. Mili said other groups had done the same.

As we arrived, we knew our day would not be that productive because the Red Cross ladies arrived for their day to help. It is obvious to us that the kids do have visitors off and on and that there might be other kids who could use our help. But we also knew that we would cherish the relationships that we had with the kids we worked with and feel that in some ways, we did make a difference. Mili kept stressing that to us. Just because the difference wasn’t the one we were expecting, that did not mean that there was not a difference. Hopefully, by the time we left, we were thinking a little more like a Peruvian than someone from the US.

I spent the morning signing the mural, looking in on the toddlers, organizing the office supplies and generally walking around and taking pictures. Lunch was water for me and at the party, I took one sip of the Pisco Sour and the Inca Cola. (National pop drink that is yellow like Mt. Dew, has a banana smell and it sweet and bubbly).

I could not wait to see the bus unload from summer school so that I could find my four favorite siblings for photos. (The highest count that came off the bus at one time was 191. Remember, in the States, the bus would have seated 48 kids). It arrived and immediately, I saw Diana and Wendy and we had a photo. Then there was Marco and Erica and again a photo. Then a little munchkin asked for a photo he is in the camera as well. What lovely kids they are.

As I look at the PPA, I kept asking other people if they had unlimited money, where would they put their energy. Mary as the former nurse would help the clinic. Bob 2 felt that there could be better vocational training for the older boys and girls, because at 18, they can no longer stay at the PPA. With upwards of 50 % unemployment and a lot of underemployment and limited college opportunities, they need some help.

As the PPA sits right now, although the building need major help, I believe they use their money where it is needed most, the kids. They are clean, well fed and safe. For all they have been through or continue to go through, they are amazingly happy and accepting.

I would spend my money to get the basic office supplies for the staff and work with them to repair more the buildings so they would have more space that was usable. Peru has two cycles of major earthquakes (30 and 50 years) and the buildings are not built to withstand them. That is where I would put my money.

The goodbye party had each of us stand and tell the group what we had learned. Mary brought us to tears as she said thank you and that each of us was leaving a little of our heart at the PPA. Then a small selection of girls and boys did a dance for us complete with hips swaying and shoulder shimmies.

Group picture and then we had our last trip on the blue bus. The next time we come back, it will be a new bus.

Dinner was in the suburb of Barranco, the artist colony. Water and rice for me and packing and early to bed, because tomorrow, Jean and I leave for Casco and then Machu Picchu.

Thank you Mili and the PPA. It was wonderful and I will never forget the faces of the angels at the PPA. What a way to start my trip! YAAAAH!

Leaving for Peru – January 6, 2006

My last day at home was intense with lots of things to do. I thought I had left myself enough time to finish the house, pack my clothes and even sleep before I got on the plane but sleep was the one thing that had to go. Looking back on the day, I realize that I created a day where I was so busy and so focused on getting out the door that I did not have time to focus on how I was feeling. A little scared, a little sad, and when I allowed myself the luxury, a lot excited.

As I mentioned earlier, Arlene was a godsend with the packing of the kitchen. Lana and I rendezvoused to leave the car in Elizabeth and then I was shuttled home to pack. I packed in a hurry and had 4 times more stuff than would fit, so I made quick (and not always the wisest) decisions and loaded my two bags. (Half way through the fight from Dallas to Lima, I realized I had no shampoo with me!) Bill Scebbi at 5:05 in the am arrived to whisk me away to the airport. A few tears for the kitten children and then off.

I had an 8:00 am flight and even with them eyeing my new computer with great interest, I was still at the gate ready to go at 6:20 am. Dallas has a lovely international terminal, where I exchanged money into Pervuian Soles and Quen had his first photo of the trip. He was so noisy in his excitement that he had to be placed in the carry on so that the rest of the plane could sleep.

Nothing remarkable to report on either flight. Immigration was fine and then the first of many, I assume, revelations about international airline luggage carts. The Peruvian ones where large enough and seemed to move easily enough, once you figured out how to unattach it from the one in front of it. They have some short of braking mechanism in the handle that flummoxed most of us for while.

Julie, wife of one of the owners of Hostel Torreblanco, met me with a sign that said Global Volunteers (GV from now on). Being met in an international airport by someone who is looking for you is such a wonderful thing. I adore being met at airports! She and I talked for 30 minutes during the drive to the hostel that was in Miraflores, a suburb of Lima. Having a distraction so that I did not have to watch the amazing traffic and driving was indeed a blessing. Early research has found that the most used piece of equipment on the cars and buses in Peru appeared to be the horn, the least used, the turn signal. More about this later. We are staying in Miraflores because it is closer to the orphanage and safer than downtown Lima.

In my room by 10pm with a sleeping pill, eyeshade, earplugs and no need to get up any earlier that I wanted. Life is good.

January 7, 2006

Up at noon, what a good sleep I had and then down to the lobby to begin investigating my new surroundings.

I had a single room for my first night but knew that I would have a roommate for the remainder of my stay, so I changed to a double room before my ramble. My new room overlooks the inner courtyard and the bathroom window is directly over the main entrance to the hostel and the traffic circle. The road noise will be an interesting experience. Then with a map with a 45-minute walking route that included the last leg by the Pacific Ocean, off I trekked to find shampoo, Kleenex, local candy and lunch.

The first thing I noticed during my walk was how clean the streets where. I found out later that this was implemented by the current president of Peru, President Toledo, who will leave office in July of this year. Over the next two weeks, I would see small armies of people dressed in bright green uniforms, some with dust masks in place, cleaning, sweeping diligently and even using a broom and handled dust pan to collect stuff from the gutters on both sides of the streets.

I found a pharmacy and bought shampoo, hand lotion, box of Kleenex, wonderful cookies and took time to browse to see what they had. All the guidebooks always give you a list of things to bring with you, as they can be hard to find abroad. Everything I would need appeared to be available, therefore I don’t regret leaving a lot of different supplies at home. I huge sigh of relief. If Peru has it, most places will have it.

I ended up walking through a major food and shopping district that included numerous travel agencies and all the airline offices. One McDonalds that I went into to see if they were offering anything local, but the menu appeared to be the same as in the US and it was packed with hungry locals. Found a movie complex showing Narnia, Elizabethtown and History of Violence, with different shows in English and Spanish depending on the time.

Ended the walk at the coast, even though I was high above the actual beach at an upscale shopping center with boutique shops. Decided to go back to the grocery store and pick up lunch stuff instead.

The temperature was in the 80’s with a decent breeze, but while in the sun, it was hot and easy to burn. Found the grocery store and picked up yoghurt, bottles of water (the tap water is unsafe to drink, even the locals don’t drink it), cheese, bread, more candy and an empanada (meat pie filled with beef). My Spanish is tentative but effective, but I will I walk with my Spanish dictionary wherever I go. The funny thing I found was that I would start my sentences in Spanish and yet want to say please and thank you in French. (I did it a few times with the GV group and we all laughed).

Back to the hostel to eat lunch and read all my information so I would be up to speed for tomorrow when I meet the group and we go through orientation.

There is also a take-one-leave-one bookshelf in the lobby so I looked to see if there is anything interesting. The lobby also has a computer with Internet access that I can use to check e-mails, daily if possible

That night as I was checking my e-mail, a girl was waiting to use the machine and she turned out to be Kim, a GV from New York. We had dinner together and during dinner, another lady arrived and asked if she could join us and she was Jean, my roommate, from North Carolina. I have a list with all their names somewhere, but I know most of them just by their first names.

Jean and I settled in. Our room is tiny and only one of us can be in the aisles between the beds or heading to the bathroom at one time, but at least we have windows across from each other so we can have a breeze. That is if we can stand the road noise. I wonder what I will learn about myself over the next two weeks?

Sunday, January 8

During orientation, we find that we are 11, ranging in ages from 19 to 74. Bob #1 and Myrna are the oldest and are from upstate New York. They have done two other GV trips to Costa Rica and Ecuador.

Mary is Hispanic, a nurse from Orange County and did a GV trip to China. We will want to keep her near at hand for assistance with our Spanish.

Next are Mitzi and her adopted Indian daughter Alicia from St. Paul. This is a first GV trip for each of them and for only one week.

Patty is from Sacramento (19) and this is her first international trip. Her luggage is somewhere between the US and Peru but she is being a good sport about it.

Barb from Lancaster County PA is a hoot, 46, part owner of a Chem lawn business and a real go-getter. This is her first GV trip and she is also only with us for one week as she will be walking the Inca trail for 4 days to see Machu Picchu.

Kim, from last night, also has parents who were from India is from New York and is planning to begin her Master’s when she returns to the States.

Roommate Jean is a retired school psychologist married to a PhD in Psychology and has been on a GV trip to China. She has a big heart, asks lots of questions, knows lots of good books to read and has many interesting stories.

That bring us to 10 with me and our last person is Bob #2, so named because we had already begun introductions and name games and the name Bob was already taken. He is 48, turning 49 at Machu Picchu, an art gallery owner from Santa Fe and previous worked with GV in Jamaica.

Mili ( Milagros = Miracles) Flores Chamachumbi is our in country director and leader. She is Peruvian, 25 and we are the first team that she is leading by herself. She has great English, a wonderful sense of humor and had been doing her internship at the orphanage for her BS in psychology. She is about ready to present her thesis to get her BS, take the licensing exam and if she passes, can then go on for her MS.

She has her hands full because many of us have strong personalities and want so badly to help (as we see it) that we can’t avoid offering well meaning but sometimes-unsolicited suggestions. Mili told us we must think like Peruvians and not like Americans. I asked her part way through the trip is we were as difficult as the toddler and kindergarteners and she just smiled and looked at me. Hmmmmmmm?

Orientation included getting to know you games, what makes a good team, team goals, description of the programs to we can do to assist the orphanage, general topics such as safety and what to expect and the list of evening dinners and activities. The weekend we have off and we are offered an excursion to Paracas (to the see the poor mans Galapagos and the Nazca lines), or there are local tours of museums to see.

Mili explained the most important part of our experience would be FLEXIBILITY. Our first time to practice this was during the picking of our projects. Mili indicated that the entire nation is on summer vacation and school break and therefore, most of the kids have gone home, if they have families. Therefore, we will only have 150 kids instead of the usual 550 during regular school. We will sign up for 2 projects, but we may find that we need to be FLEXIBLE if a need is greater in another area.

My first chance at flexibility comes when I find out that there were no little babies to hold. Sigh, no one to sing lullabies to, or so I thought!

The projects from which we could select (1 in the am, 1 in the pm) included:

AM projects
Summer school – go with the kids off campus to another sight for mainly outdoor fun activities that might include swimming.
Toddlers – play with the smallest guys (1-3 years) and possibly assist with feeding.
Boy’s bathroom construction project – in the dorms for the oldest boys, there were not stalls around all the toilets. The Brother who oversees that area in really interested in us at least starting this project.
Clinic duty – this is for one hour only and is for us to visit and play with those in the infirmary.

PM projects
Outdoors with the oldest boys – This mainly includes soccer
Teaching English to the older girls – This was supposed to be teaching English, but turned into assisting the Nun with knitting, cooking and sewing workshops
Playing with the kindergarteners – the was mostly play ground guards, with occasional quiet time with learning games and short projects
Siblings group – As the children are separated into age groups and by sexes, some siblings don’t get to see each other. This is a chance for them to have some time together and to play.
Sweet Dreams - This is where volunteers go in to say good night to the 3-5’s. It is done pretty early right after their dinner, so they don’t really sleep, but they are restricted to their dorms.

I signed up for Toddlers and Siblings and Sweet dreams on Wed of the first week.

We then went on a four hour city tour of Lima and saw the main cathedral & catacombs, the main post office, residence of the president, palace of justice (injustice according to our guide), and went through the area where most of the embassy’s and politicians live.

Downtown Lima is big, noisy and a little scary. It is a city of many contrasts with the poorest of the poor living within eyesight of the very rich. Even though Lima is on the coast, it never receives any rain. All of the rivers were dry and the city was dusty and hot. People are everywhere trying to sell you things, shine your shoes, and lure you in to their restaurant or shop, anything to make money. At traffic lights (which are very few) little boys appear in the cross walk and juggle or do tricks for money. In addition, as you are stopped, people walk up and down with everything from soft drinks and food, to batteries, hats and souvenirs. There isn’t a lot of out-and-out begging to be seen, but when you want to take a photo that might include a specific person, you should have your small change ready, because they expect a tip.

The dogs on the streets are almost always males (not a neuter in sight) and a ragtag bunch. If we have Heinz 57, these are Heinz 114. Thin and hungry looking, they don’t make eye contact and don’t appear to be owned by anyone. They aren’t aggressive, but know that they are low on the chain. The guidebook said to be very aware in Lima and I am glad I am there with a group.

We return to have dinner in our hotel and to have our first Pisco Sour, a drink made from the native brandy called Pisco. It is excellent, like a whiskey sour, and we all have one, as the drinking age in Peru is 18. We all begin to bond and exchange stories and look forward to our first day with kids.

Hello Group,

I realize that I did send the itinerary to you guys before I left. Sorry. Here it is.

Jan 6-21 Lima Peru, Global Volunteer placement working at the orphanage
Jan 21-23 Cuzco Peru, acclimating to the altitude
Jan 23-25 Aquas Calientes Peru - viewing Machu Picchu
Jan 25-27 Arequipa Peru - Colonial City and Colca Canyon
Jan 27-29 Chiclayo Peru - Major exhibit Senor of Sipan
Jan 30-Feb 3 Trujillo Peru - Chan Chan ruins
Feb 3-9 Saint Eulalia - Dances of Universal Peace
Feb 9 Leave for Santiago Chile - sleep in the airport

Feb 10-14 Easter Island Chile - looking at massive stone heads
Feb 15 Chile to Auckland in route to Thailand
Feb 18 Arrive in Bangkok - lose 2 days in transit

Feb 20-Mar 5 Khorat Thailand- Earthwatch archeological dig on society thought to build Angkor Wat in Cambodia
Mar 6-10 Angkor Wat in Cambodia
Mar 10-16 Various places in Thailand including River Kwai horse camp and Bangkok revisiting old favorites

Mar 16-21 Bali - Not sure what I will do here. Maybe just relax and catçh up on my blog.

Mar 21-25 Auckland NZ - Relax and prepare for the next placement

Mar 25-Ap 15 Cook Islands with Global Volunteers - teaching english and other projects.

Apr 20-May 9 NEW ZEALAND - YAAAH! VACATION

May 9-May 23 Australia - Earthwatch placement near MacKay with Koala´s
May 23-June 2 Time off for excursion
June 2-15 I to I placement near Rockhampton with Wallabys
June 15-24 Time off for excursion
June 24-July 7 Earthwatch placement on Kangaroo Island off Adelaide with Echidna´s

July 13 - 16 Through Hong Kong on route to Sri Lanka

July 16-Aug 15 Sri Landa - I to I placement in elephant orphanage

Aug 15-24 Hong Kong to rest and sight see

Aug 25 - 9-21 South Africa - near Kruger National Park - Enkosini placement with baboons
Sept 23-Nov 4 Capetown - Enkosini placement with Penguins
Nov 5-19 Near Kruger NP - I to I placement with Lions

Nov 20- Dec 1 Madrid Spain - Vaughan Village placement - speaking english to Spanish business people.

Dec 2-23 Romania near Bucharest - Global Volunteers placement with orphans.

Dec 23-30?? England - rest and relax

??? Back in the US via Chicago to get to Philly

?? Back in Denver

Things between Jan and March are set. Deposits have been made for the I to I placements and EW placement through July. Everything else is tentative, but a probable go unless something really special shows up.

Will try and post actual PERU entries with photos soon. Just as soon as I find a Starbucks, that is.

Love to all and thanks for you love, encouragement and support.

Gypsy Jane